We took the US$45 option, which we bargained down to US$44, and then got a service tax slapped on it, making it US$48.40. This was the one and only time we ever got slapped with a 10% tax, anywhere!
So, we're looking forward to the "Big Boat", and the "Big Lunch", and the fluent English speaking guide. The trip started real well with a cramped little bus, packed to capacity, and a guide who's not all that fluent in English.
It was an uncomfortable 3hr ride to Bai Chay, which is just one bridge away before Hong Gai. That's where the tourist jetty is, where an armada of hotel-boats berth. We found our boat quickly, and waited impatiently to depart. The view here was already amazing, and we're looking forward to getting closer to the islands dotting the bay.
The waters are greenish blue, and dead calm. There's hardly any wind, but the movement of the boat gave a good 30kph breeze. The warm sun. The cool air. The smell of the sea. The sight of the limestone islands. The relaxation, wonderful. Except that the cold air makes my skin break out in a rash if I sit top-side too long.
The islands are one of a kind... They're like those phallic mountains you often see in chinese landscape art, ie tall, sheer-faces, narrow rounded peaks. Just imagine a whole bunch of these mountains together, and then you flood the whole place till only the tip shows.
Sorry I can't be more poetic describing these wonderful sights... There's no poetry in my cold silicon soul.
We made a stop at the island with the Cave of Surprises, which composed of several huge limestone caverns. It must have looked great when it was virgin. They've remodeled the cavern to make it tourist friendly. A wide path carved out. Strategically placed yellow spotlights. The ceiling machined smooth so no stalagtites are left to fall and kill. And the rubble was stacked up in 'artistic piles', hoping that tourist won't notice how much of it was artificial.
I walked on ahead and listened in while another tour guide did his spiel on his group. When our tourguide caught up, it was agony hearing our guide trying to do the exact same speech, rote learned from their Tourism 101 class, in his halting English.
Lunchtime, at least the Big Lunch did not disappoint. Fairly neutral and palatable foods in bountiful quantities. The four of us got a table all to ourselves. The others were still recovering their appetite from the dog meat, so I got the lion's share of the food.
After lunch, we began to teach WeeLoong to play Hearts. Yes, that game that comes with Windows XP.
Then we made a stop at Ti Top island. Nothing there but a viewing gazebo up on a 84m summit. It was quite a climb. But even a gimp legged Jap tourist made it. Think he had arthrodesis on one knee. The view was good.
Back down on the beach, there's kayaking for those who felt up to it. That ended in a minor disaster. Got my bermudas wet, and they're impossible to dry in these temperatures and humidity. Tried to air dry it anywhere I could, but it was hopeless. Luckily, the hotel at Sa Pa could do laundry at 15k Dong per kg, but that's 3 nights later.
In the evening, the boat chugged slowly to the 'boat park'. As it happens, there's a big "P" sign to designate the parking area.
The night was moonless, and the darkness quite complete. Such that you can see a green glow in the waters from the bioluminescent plankton. It's pretty cool to watch. When you spit into the water, you can see green ripples in the waters. Amusing as it was, I couldn't indulge too much. Was running low on fluids, and drinking water is expensive, and I down 2-3 litres of water on any given day.
Speaking of which...
Hanoi Travel Tip
1.5l of mineral water is 10k Dong for tourists almost everywhere. But they'll sell for 7k, which was the cheapest I ever saw in Hanoi, which also doesn't happen very often.
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